Bukhara – Some Text

We arrived Sunday afternoon in Bukhara without incident and made our way by taxi from the train station to the Komil B&B in the old city. It’s another lovely place, although everything in Uzbekistan is a bit dusty.

We settled in and went out to the main town square where there were relatively a lot of tourists. We’ve learned that since Bukhara’s areas of interest are somewhat more compressed there actually aren’t more tourists than in Samarkand – they’re just more apparent. But, as the evening progressed more locals populated the main square to enjoy the community and cooler air of the evening.

We had dinner at the hotel and wound down with a little vodka that I found in Samarkand with a little orange juice. It’s hard to buy liquor or cigarettes since so few shops sell these drugs. But, they can be found … people do drink … and every restaurant so far serves the local beer, which is light, but tasty and very refreshing after a day in the heat.

Monday we toured the Arc, found a tea shop for a light lunch of bread, yogurt, salad and tea and then returned to the hotel for a mid-day nap before heading back out in the late afternoon to go shopping. There are many bazaars in Bukhara and lots of beautiful local stuff to buy. We were a little surprised that these bazaars are not on the scale of what we’ve experienced in places like Istanbul or Jerusalem, but rather just a bunch of small shops. No matter … different scale.

After being turned away from our first choice restaurant (we hadn’t made a reservation) we ended up in another place that was fine. It was a bit of trip since they at first couldn’t find us a table, but it all worked out, especially after the live show of daggers and fake fire with ear splitting music was over.

The next morning (Tuesday) we take a taxi out of town to see the Summer Palace of the last Emir. The one that liked to throw bodies off the highest minaret. The summer palace was built by the Russians in an attempt to get the Emir out of his strong hold in the Arc, which we had visited the day before. Archie and Pat proceeded to visit the next town down the road to see a pottery factory while Ruth and I took a taxi back into the city. After another light lunch, we visited a beautiful 16-century mosque that has not been restored. Seeing what was ‘left’ of the original 400+ year old work was great.

We returned to the hotel and I got walloped with food poisoning. The following day and now this Thursday morning I remain behind in the hotel while the healthy others explore more of Bukhara. I’m better today, but need to find someway to be ready to cross the desert later this morning by minivan to Khiva. A desert drive that can take 6- to 10-hours.

2 comments to Bukhara – Some Text

  • Frank Vitale

    Great narrative, David. Hope u feel better.

  • peg patterson

    Just fabulous! The mosques look tattooed like some arms I’ve seen in Williamsburg with not an inch untouched. Quite fascinating. Sorry about the food poisoning. This too will pass. Keep having fun!


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