Detail of Mosque in the Arc of Kheva

Detail of Mosque in the Arc of Kheva

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Khiva is another ancient city on the Silk Road that was last conquered by the Russians in 1872 on their third attempt; then flipped to the USSR as the czars were knocked off. We stay in the Orient Star Hotel, a converted 18th-century Madrassa. The vast majority of the sites are within the walled city.

The old city has an almost Disneyland quality to it, but then, of course, everything is actually old and not a façade.

After checking into the hotel, we find a nice outdoor restaurant a few blocks away. I have my first dinner in several days: Plov, the national dish. Plov is rice cooked with onion and shredded carrots, and a few bits of beef or mutton on top. It is a simple meal that it isn’t overly spiced, and about the best I can do on my still delicate stomach. It all goes down – and stays down.

After spending the next two days touring all of the sites in Khiva we take a guide for part of one day, which gives us a chance to have a lot of ‘local questions’ answered.

On Sunday we leave Khiva early by minivan for the desert crossing to Nukus.

1 comment to Khiva

  • Safra

    Sounds and looks like you guys are having an interesting time.
    What are these cities built of – mud bricks? It all looks so uniform.
    The photos of cotton weeding brought back memories… We were obliged to do that chore as kids. Not fun, but at least it wasn’t that hot.
    Keep up the good work (photos and stories!

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